Did your car suddenly became really slow on acceleration and at the same time, it seems like it will not rev past 2500-3000 RPM while the engine light is flashing on your dashboard?
Then your car was most likely in a condition called Limp Mode, and you are reading the right article to solve this problem.
However, why does this happen and how expensive will it be to repair my car? You may think.
In this article, I will teach you everything you have to know about the function called limp home mode, to make sure that you will be able to fix your car as soon as possible in a painless way.
What is Limp mode?
Limp mode is a security function for your engine and transmission. When the engine or transmission control unit has recognized a serious faulty parameter from the engine or transmission, the car will go into limp mode. The limp mode does often reduce the power and limit the RPM of the engine so you can drive your car to a workshop without damaging the engine.
For example, Your engine control unit is detecting that your turbo boost pressure is 2.0 bar when the maximum boost pressure should be 1.3 bar. Overboost may damage your pistons or other internal parts fast. Because many car owners do not care enough about the engine light, the engine control unit does sets itself into limp mode and shut off the turbo boost completely and put a max RPM limit to 3000 RPM’s, to make sure that you won’t blow or damage any engine parts.
In the video below, you will get in-depth information about what limp mode is. The video is specific for truck diesel engines, but the video will get detailed information for all car models.
Limp Mode Symptoms
The purpose of the Limp mode function is to get you to the workshop in the safest way without damaging any engine components on the way to the workshop. Different car manufacturers design different kinds of limp modes to save your engine. The common characteristics of limp mode may differ a bit, depending on the problem with your engine/transmission and depending on which car and engine you have.
Here are some of the most common symptoms when it comes to limp mode.
- Reduced Engine Power / Turbo boost shut off completely
- RPM Limit Lowered
- Your Automatic Transmission is “stuck” in a gear/limited to max 3rd gear
- Check Engine light/Half engine light/EPC(Volkswagen) is flashing
If you experience all of these symptoms, your car is for sure in Limp mode and it has to get fixed as soon as possible.
Possible Causes
Down below, you will find the most common things that usually causes the limp home mode. As you see, I do only mention the issues in general.
The reason for this is that limp mode could be caused by a lot of different engine components in your engine bay. Therefore, the solution for this is to read the trouble code memory with an OBD2 scanner
to find the problem before you are replacing any engine parts!
Here is a list of different possible causes of limp-mode.
- Engine boost control, Overboost/Underboost
- Faulty engine sensors
- Faulty engine components
- Engine wiring issues
- Transmission issues
- Transmission wiring issues
- Brake system wiring issues
Limp Mode Troubleshooting Table
| Problem | Symptoms | Causes | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Limp Mode | Rev Limit 2500-4000 RPM Low Performance Under-boost Transmission shifting max 3rd gear Check Engine Light Restricted Functions | Engine boost control, Overboost/Underboost Faulty engine sensors Faulty engine components Engine wiring issues Transmission issues Transmission wiring issues Brake system wiring issues | Read the trouble code memory with an OBD2 scanner. This will help you to find the problem the cheapest and fastest way. |
What causes Limp mode?
When the engine control module, transmission control module or brake control unit(ABS) detects a problem in the engine, transmission or with the brake system, it will store a trouble code in your DTC memory.
If one of the control units decide that the problem is dangerous for the engine or transmission, it will put the car into limp mode. Therefore, limp-mode could be caused by a lot of different things.
Because of this, every time when the limp mode is active, there will be a stored trouble code in the trouble code memory. Therefore, the best solution to fix the limp mode without replacing wrong parts is to find out which this trouble code is.
When the limp mode is active, you should read the trouble code memory with an OBD2 scanner as soon as possible, to make sure that the trouble code won’t get self erased, which could cause delayed troubleshooting.
Things to consider
Usually, You may do a little research on the internet, and you will get many tips on what could cause the limp mode. They are often telling you that they had the same characteristics as their vehicle five years ago like “I replaced this part and it fixed my problem.”
The problem with the limp mode is that you are getting the same characteristics with a lot of different faults. That’s why you should never listen to anyone that had the same problem before. You will only end up wasting your money on parts that were not faulty from the beginning.
It is straightforward to read the DTC memory with a good scanner and find out the real solution to why your car has gotten into limp mode. You could either drive your car to a friend or a mechanic to get help to read your DTC memory, it will probably not cost much money, and you will get a real answer to your problem.
How to use an OBD2 code scanner?
The process to connect an OBD2 scanner is pretty simple. First, you have to locate the OBD connector, generally found under your steering wheel. I do recommend to attach a car battery charger while you are doing this job to avoid any damages to the electrical system.
Never connect an OBD2 Scanner when you have a bad/worn out car battery. If you think you need a new car battery you can check out the best ones in this article at ReviewJam.com. If your car battery is good and you have a car battery charger connected, turn the ignition on and follow the manual with the OBD2 scanner.
Where can I get an OBD2 scanner?
One thing that we strongly recommend, is to purchase a good OBD2 scanner to read your trouble codes at home by yourself. There are a lot of cheaper scanners on the market that will do the job, and it could be an excellent investment instead of taking it to your mechanic all the time. Workshops do usually charge 20-100$ to read the trouble codes from your car once, and because of this, you can save the scanner cost in just 1-2 workshop visits.
If you do not have an OBD2 scanner at home, you could either let a workshop read the trouble codes from your car or consider purchasing a scanner for your vehicle.
One OBD Scanner that we often recommend to our readers, is the BlueDriver Bluetooth Scanner. It’s compatible with the most Smartphones on the market and it can read enhanced trouble codes from your vehicle. Just check the list of compatible vehicles to make sure your car model is listed before purchase.
If you consider purchasing one to have stored in your car, you can find the BlueDriver OBD2 scanner here on Amazon.com.
Fix the trouble code
If you got any trouble codes stored in your memory and you do not know which to fix first, you could save and erase them and take it for a drive to see if the problem is coming back or not. If you are fortunate, it was just a coincidence, and your car may work as it should. However, in most cases, the trouble code will come back, and you have to repair anything to get it away.
When you found out which error code that is causing the limp mode, you should search for some information about the trouble-code and not just replace the part that it is telling you is faulty.
Just because you got a trouble code on the throttle body, for example, it does not automatically means that the part is faulty, it could be a wiring or software issue also.
The OBD2 scanners in our review do have an inbuilt trouble code library where it will show you the causes and solution of different trouble codes.
What to do if limp home mode occurs on the road
If the limp mode suddenly happens while you are driving the car far from home. Make a safe stop as fast as possible to check for any leakage, smoke or noise from the engine or transmission. If everything seems okay, you could either drive to the closest workshop or get it towed if you feel uncomfortable. If it’s not possible, encourage the shortest way to your home and fix it there or get it towed to a workshop.
Tow your car to the workshop or home is always the safest move.
Limp Mode FAQ
My limp mode is intermittent, and it went after an engine restart?
The limp mode does often disappear after a restart of your vehicle. At the start of your engine, the engine control unit will check all the sensors if they are OK. If the status is Ok, the control unit will allow you to drive your car as usual.
The problem is maybe not occurring at idle, and that is why it will remove the limp mode automatically for you. Then when the control unit detects the fault again, it will put your car into limp mode again.
My Limp mode occurs when hard accelerating and happening when driving normal?
If the problem only occurs when you are doing hard accelerating, there is most likely a problem with your boost control system. If the vehicle detects an overboost/underboost pressure, it will go into limp mode.
If you are getting into limp mode at a lower speed or at idle also, you are most likely not having a boost problem. However, you should always check your DTC memory before doing any repairs or troubleshooting.
Is it dangerous to drive with limp home mode?
Yes, the limp mode is set because of a reason. If you notice that your car has gotten into limp mode, you should fix it as soon as possible. The limp mode is designed so you can drive the closest way to a workshop to get the problem fixed.
Do not drive around with the engine light ON. Even if you know the problem and it’s not a fault that will cause any damage, it can hurt your engine, and you will not notice if you get any real trouble with your engine.
I have replaced the damaged part, will the engine light and limp mode go away by itself?
Yes, in most cases. The trouble code system is working in cycles. Each time you start your vehicle, and it gets hot, and it has tested all the sensors, it gets registered as one fully functional cycle. Depending on the car model, the engine light will reset after a fixed number of cycles. If it has detected that the fault has not occurred within 10-20 periods, it will see the problem as repaired.
However, the easiest way and the best way is of course to reset the engine light and trouble codes with an OBD2 scanner. With these tools, you could always check all the parameters in the engine to see if they are okay if you have some knowledge.
Conclusion
- Don’t panic when the limp mode occurs. It’s designed to make your engine survive to make sure that you can drive to the workshop to repair the problem.
- Limp mode is caused by an electrical problem with the engine or transmission
- Limp mode is a security function.
- Make sure that you go to a workshop or try to fix it yourself as soon as possible. It’s not good to drive around with limp mode
- You can buy an obd2 scanner to check the cause of the limp mode yourself at home.
- Do not just replace parts on your vehicle without reading the trouble code memory first.
If you have any more questions about the limp mode or want to tell us your store about it, you can comment down below here and let us know. If you have any other car questions, you are welcome to read our other articles on our blog or ask us for free at our homepage. We will help you out as soon as possible.
Good luck with your troubleshooting and I hope that I will see you in the next article also!
I have a friend that’s selling a dodge caliber but its stuck on limp mode and it won’t let you drive faster than 20mph? What can be the problem?
I’ve tried everything put a new transmission and input output sensors unplugged the battery for 5 minutes all kinds of stuff I’ve heard on the internet and nothing I’m thinking maybe my computer has to be reset or clear it or something but that cost a lot of money
Hi Robert,
Try unplugging the cruise control switch on on the brake pedal.
My cruise control control module is a integral part of the Engine Control Module or ECM.
You may need to send your ECM out for repairs and recalibration.
Remember there are only three parts to a drive by wire system. Throttle pedal, electronic throttle body and the ECM. Most likely the cruise control circuit has malfunctioned and is keeping you in limp mode.
I removed the cruise control switch and the engine roared back to life in drive. That’s when I discovered I had a bad bearing in the transfer case.
Limp mode was preventing me from seeing this problem. In limp mode I didn’t have the power to climb a short hill. Limp mode disabled the torque converter and prevented the car from gaining enough speed to overcome the hill.
Very aggravating.
Hope this helps.
Clinton Gregg
Is there inning one that can help me with a scanner labtop.
Read the trouble code memory with a scanner. When the limp mode is on, there is always a permanent trouble code stored in the memory. It’s cheaper to read it and get a fast answer than guessing and just replacing parts!
hello, having same problem-read codes with obd2-got nowhere.
transmission control system module was the code i got-replaced transmission speed sensors, then replaced fuel pump just to be on safe side. still having limp mode… in past 2 weeks it went from limp mode 2-3 times a day to limp mode 24/7.
Help?
I drive a 2013 Honda Civic Si sedan. I don’t know exactly if this is considered limp mode but, the first time I experienced this was after I got a stage 1 clutch installed. My CEL, VSA, Power steering light all came on. I was driving about 65 mph and then my gas pedal stopped working. I was able to down shift and up shift in my car but that was it. Gas pedal stopped. My speed was also decreasing slowly. But what caused it when I checked and inspected was a loose oil drain plug which I tightened it then my lights went away and I was able to drive as normal. But then again it happened but this time it wasn’t an oil drain plug. I just let the car sit then went to research on what it could be but I’m seeing that I need a tune because my stage 1 clutch is not OEM. Could this be it?
The oil plug should not affect the Limp-mode and is most likely a coincidence. I would recommend you to read the trouble codes in the engine control unit. When the limp mode is active, there is a stored trouble code and you want to check this code as it will most likely lead you to the problem!
I own a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage de 1.5 “automatic” that recently went into limp mode .. I took it to the mechanic to get it checked out. They put the one scanner in order to read the codes. The codes came out to be the transmission shift solenoid . I bought all five shift solenoids used of eBay ! The mechanic installed the part today with new transmission oil, he test out the car and end up going back into limp mode!?. What could be the issue now , if the part got replaced!? The mechanic told me that it might be the transmission that needs to be replaced!?. I’ve been the second owner!? Please help :/
@Jc
You should read the trouble code memory again and check if you have a trouble code on the shift solenoids again. It does also matter a lot of the trouble code is saying an electric or mechanical fault. If the shift solenoids are replaced, and it does still say “Electric fault shift solenoid”, the problem is most likely in the wirings or the transmission control unit. You can measure up the shift solenoids function with a diagnostic scanner and try them manually to make sure they work as they should.
If the trouble code says mechanical fault, it can be dirty oil or clogged up a transmission and you have to inspect it further, which can end up with a transmission replacement in the worst case!
I have a 2012 Honda accord in limp mode. Car want go past 25mph. Checked the codes and showing crank sensor, and o2, o3 misfire and random misfire. Any suggestions on what I may be experiencing?
@Heather L Bryant
I would recommend you to erase the trouble code and start it again to see which trouble codes that would get triggered first.
Now the trouble codes depend a lot of the O2 sensor says lean mixture or electric fault etc.
In this case, there could be a problem with the crankshaft sensor, O2 sensor (Depending on what trouble code it have). The misfires can be caused by a faulty Crankshaft sensor or O2 sensor. It can also be caused by an intake leak around the intake.
But if you have a scanner, erase the trouble codes and check if the crankshaft sensor trouble code or the O2 sensor code appears first. If you have O2 sensor “lean mixture” trouble code and the misfires, I would start to check for any intake leaks around the intake and the hoses.
Have a 2001 mercedes sprinter (diesel/manual) that constantly goes into limp mode around 80 degrees on temp gauge.
No codes ever show up on the scanner (obd2) and have replaced radiator hose, turbo sensor, air and oil filters.
Im at my wits end with this thing as it goes great for a few weeks and then bam back to limp mode.
I also cant3get the glow plug light to go out.
Any help would be great as the town I live in doesn’t have a mechannic that will touch it – apparently its all too hard work (lazy smucks) and the authorized place wants to charge me 8 grand!!
@Stephen
Did you try with any other scanner to see the codes? If your car feels a bit low on power before the limp mode occurs, I would start to check for any boost pipe leaks and the function of the turbo system. Check that the wastegate arm on the turbo moves freely and that the vacuum hoses is okay.
But however, when this occurs, there should be trouble codes stored and it’s probably just the scanner that cant read then. The best bet here would be to try another if possible, one that can read enhanced trouble codes would be the best 🙂
I have a 2012 Nissan Altima with 182,000 and the battery light and ABS light are both on and the check engine light sometimes blinks but sometimes goes off. The cars keeps going into limp mode. Brought it to Nissan and was informed it was a misfire on cylinder 2. Replaced the coil pack on that cylinder. Ran better temporarily but when it went back to limp mode brought it back to Nissan and now its giving a code concerning the catalytic converter. It seems that the batter is having trouble recharging. Already swapped alternators but upon being told my core was good i swapped them back. I purchased Cataclean (auto zone manager recommend it) and added it to a 1/4 tank as instructed but after starting it and attempting to drive it it rapidly went into limp mode and then killed. Wont restart. Should i replace the catalytic converter considering it seems like a battery issue more than a cat. conv. issue? My faith in Nissan is almost gone due to them not finding the cat code during the 1st scan plus the fact that i heard Nissan merged with Fiat and Renault years ago and ive heard they are both junk. Please help cause im almost ready to just sell the damn car to a junkyard and not buy another Nissan.
Have discovered that the fan isn’t cutting in at all when engine is getting warm.
Can get it to work when I connect straight to battery and car not moving but it won’t work when driving for some unknown reason. Any help on that would be gratefully received.
Also having trouble locating the egr valve on my sprinter, have looked in books and online but not one mention of the location.
I would suggest you check the coolant temperature sensor for the cooling fan. Sometimes the car uses two different temperature sensors for the engine control unit and the fan control unit!
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry and this is the second time that it has gone into limp mode within the last two months .It was a bad alternator the first time that it happened .Im wondering if it could be the alternator again. Or do you have any suggestions on what it could be it wont even go 5 mph
@Tybrina Unfortunately, it’s very difficult to guess on this one. It could absolutely be the alternator again, but you have to read the trouble codes again to know for sure. Post the codes here if you have any and I will try to help you out 🙂
I have a 2018 Kia with only 10K miles. I got a Kia letter telling me that it’s a possible rod bearing problem, if it goes into engine limp mode to take it in right away. I’m sure that should not be happening to a brand new engine in a car I just bought. Not a happy camper right now. I think I want my money back or something along those lines if I have a defective engine. What would you do?
Difficult situation. If they have found a solution to the problem, it might be running for very long after the repair/fix. I would absolutely consider trying getting the money back because a bad rod bearing on such a new engine can cause really expensive repairs in the future when the warranty has expired. For example Volkswagens problems with the 1.4 tfsi engine, even if the new parts are stronger the problems still come back later on again.
Limp mode may be great but not much fun when you are 200km away from the nearest town, have no telephone signal and it is stinking hot and you are towing a caravan! An inbuilt fault detector would be great! Long storey but to me Engine Fault Light on is about the best way to increase your blood pressure – modern cars are great but are totally disasters when you are “out-back” and the dreaded limp mode starts. City-Slickers invention!
Yes, Limp mode can both be good or bad depending on the situation. However, I would really recommend getting an OBD2 scanner, like the BlueDriver if you have a smartphone. Easy to connect to your vehicle in those situations and to check the trouble codes, and even erase them and keep driving if it was just a temporary problem.
They are small and can be stored in your car.
Will a 2009 bmw328xi go Into limp mode is the oil filter housing leaks out all the motor oil?. my main question is will it go into limp mode before blowing the engine?
@Sam Limp mode won’t save an engine without oil pressure. If the oil pressure is dropped it will seize and damage the bearings on all RPM’s. If the engine loses oil pressure, you should shut it off immediately.
Hello, my car is showing this codes:
“Altitude sensor signal/intake manifold pressure, implausible ratio-”
and
“Air intake system, Leak detected-”
What should i get replaced as i feel like the technicians are guessing
The trouble codes together indicate that there is a problem with your EGR valve. However, it’s just a guess here but from my experience, these codes do either tends to be a problem with the EGR or a boost/intake leak.
Citroen C2 goes into limp mode plugged in says missfire cylinder one, replace coil pack spark plugs, crank sensor and recently had new timing belt too but that’s been re checked again too, garage can not find fault?? Restart engine and drives fine again. Prob next day it do it all again??
Normally when you get misfire on just one cylinder, it’s either spark plug/coil, bad intake gasket, Compression or a bad fuel injector. It can also be a vacuum leak but there is often trouble codes on other cylinders also.
I have a mitsuibusi i turbo (2008) which goes into limp mode.
Read the trouble codes to find the problem 🙂
I own a Mercedes-Benz c-240 it just went on limp mode and I would like to know how could get it out of limp mode
You have to read the trouble codes with a scanner to get a clue of how to get it out of limp mode. You can also remove one battery cable to reset the ECU, however, if the problem is still there. It will go into limp mode again.
2001 Honda Passport LX 4×4
Codes – p1125, p1295, p1515
Stuck in Limp mode
I couldn’t get car to start unless I feathered gas pedal and stayed on the gas to keep rpm’s up. I figured it was just the Throttle Position Sensor, I changed it, and now the car will at least idle without me having to use the gas but even after clearing the codes I couldn’t get it out of limp mode and then the same 3 codes came back up a while later. I even tried disconnecting battery cable for an hour then reattaching. About to change the fuel filter as a last resort. I just really don’t believe its the PCM, that would be just so bizarre. Only other thought is something funky with the wiring somewhere, but I couldn’t find anything obvious. Any ideas? This vehicle had it’s transmission rebuilt, also had to throw another engine in it as well. I did notice some burning smell coming from the wheels while driving it before, but figured it was just brakes riding or the little plate behind the rotors riding on the rotors, but not sure if that burning smell maybe something else now. Thanks for any advice you may have!
You have to check the power, ground, and signal for the TPS sensor. I’m not sure if you have an electric throttle body or a throttle wire. However, if there is an electric one, there might be a problem in the electric motor, or on the accelerator pedal.
Are you sure that the TPS is correctly fitted and that the basic setting is done after the replacement, check for broken wires!
I have a 2013 Sentra that went into limp mode after the brake fluid got low and the traction control light came on and stayed on. After fixing the low fluid problem, the light has stayed off, but it still seems to be in limp mode. What do you suggest?
You might have to erase the trouble codes with a scanner or remove one battery cable for 10 minutes to reset the control units!
Have a 2006 Mitsubishi outlander. It went into limp mode and the code that comes up is P2135 & P2135 again. This is the only car I have to get to work n back so I’ve been driving it around town at 30mph. I’ve replaced the throttle body and still same problem. Please help me fix it?!!??
If the throttle body sensor is replaced, and a basic setting is done properly there is most likely a faulty wire between the engine control unit and the throttle body sensor that is causing your problem. I would recommend to let a good workshop make a basic setting and measure the signals from the engine control unit for you.
A friend of mine wants to give me his 2004 Nissan Murano. They have told me that usually in summer, and not very often, the car will not move at all from a complete stop for 20-30 seconds, then it just takes off and it’s fine. Never one engine light or codes. No mechanic has found the problem and I believe replacing the throttle body was the only part replaced so far. My only clue is it happens in hotter ambient temperatures. Tranny overheating? I am worried about using it for a daily driver. Thanks
Does the engine shut off completely for 20-30 seconds or is it just not driving forward? If the engine is going down, you should measure the fuel pressure while it’s shutting down. If the pressure is low it could be caused by a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay. Other common causes for sudden engine stop is a faulty crankshaft sensor or a faulty throttle body like you mentioned.
Good day,
i am driving a Q5 2.0TDI the vehicle start and cut off the fuel. @ audi they did all the test and replace fuel pump as well as fuel control unit but it didn’t solve the problem.
Today i am getting answer that the vehicle is on limp mode.
what can be the course
You should read the trouble codes and post them here. Are you sure that it’s not an immobilizer problem? Usually the engine will run for 2-3 seconds and then shut off if there is a problem with the immobilizer/key recognization. This problem will shut down the ignition and/or fuel.
I have a Ford Transit Diesel. Fault codes for DPF and DPF temperature sensor bank 1. The vehicle was running on limp mode during this time. I have removed and clean out the DPF and put back on to the vehicle but the limp mode still there. However I have re scanned and now fault code for temperature sensor now came up. I then removed the sensor and cleaned out and put back to the vehicle but now received a different symptom. The vehicle only starts and run for 3 to 4 seconds and shut it self off. It will take up to one or two hours may be longer to re start again but only run for 3 to 4 seconds. please help
Hello there. I got a question to ask. My car model is Mercedes Benz C 204. Recently, the transmission of gear getting slower. I had done the OBD SCANNING. But no faulty was detected regarding transmission. Can you guide me on how to solve it? I already asked mechanic to look for the causes. Still no solution. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2017 Kia Soul that has gone into limp mode three times,the first two happened right after filling my tank and the mechanic though I had to have topped off the gas tank .I may have but I don’t think so. The first time it started up the following morning. The second time I had it towed to a dealer and it must have started right up the following morning ( that’s when the mechanic assumed I had topped it off ) the third time I was nowhere near a fuel pump and I was at the ranch when, for so train, it went into limp mode and stayed the following am. I had it towed once more and for the last three days the mechanics have been trying to get it to go into limp mode again. Apparently the can’t find any coded in the computer that would indicate specific problems Help!!!
Hi Josh!
Thanks a lot for your info, very helpful indeed.
I drive a Megane II 2.0T I have an intermittent limb mode, sometimes the car takes a while before it fires up, gets into limb mode briefly at idle and while driving slow than it just gets stuck at 2500 revs then it quickly goes away, put it on my OBD 2 scanner it came up with lambda sensor fault so I took it to a garage just to be sure they got the same fault so I went and bought the 4 wired sensor but it came out with different plug than the one on car but wires all the same but still gets the same symptoms and fault as previously. Is it possible that the sensor is not compatible with the car or do I have something else faulty. My coils and plugs got tested and they fine.
No other sensor comes up except the 02 sensor
P0130 and P0141 being up and down stream 02 sensor.
Could it be electrical?
Will a non turbo sensor malfunction on my turbo car?
Thanks again.
I have an 05 toyota highlander. It wemt into limp mode with the check engine, trac off and vsc light on. The OBD told me code P2102 throttle actuator control circut low. I replaced the throttle body, relays, fuses and accelerator. Ive done the idle relay reset and cleared codes, and still same thing. Limp mode still on. Please someone help me!!
Hi from South Africa: (Sorry for the long story.)
I know I make a mistake buying a Scenic 2004 1.9dci but was cheap with a lot of space for my 2 small boys. then slowly start fixing it, done: the Motor, the turbo, the injectors & turbo hose pipe, put new mass air sensor, clean the boost pressure sensor. And still have no power, meaning I press the accelerator hard and no power is like the motor is starving, at any uphill need to go down to second even first gear to make it. Done the diagnosis last time and the boost pressure sensor is in fault and can’t get it to clear .
Could that fault be the cause of the Scenic not giving me any power when I accelerate on 3rd or more? & why the motor die on the uphills? I can’t believe the problem is in the Hi pressure diesel pump. I did specialist check the diesel filter & injectors & they are ok. They want to charge me ZAR 4000 = $ 285 just to check the diesel pump and to repair it ZAR 8500 = $ 600
First how do I know that they will be honest enough and say the pump was ok after testing it, they can easy say that is not pumping properly to make more money and I will have to believe it. But imagine If I can save in time $600 to do the pump, then after they put the pump back, there is no improvement at all in the scenic. What would you do?
I insist it could be a bad contact wire. May be the on board computer sense a error in the system(boost pressure sensor) and don’t let the diesel pump supply the right amount of diesel for the equal position of the accelerator. I promise, while you are driving (slowly) push the accelerator and no reaction, nothing happen, is so frustrating I can’t explain it. I stop a year ago taking the children to school with the Scenic as I was embarrass going in the uphill of the school in first gear to get to the entrance while all other dad’s overtaking me and hoot without understand that is not my fault. (that bad). Save some money done the injectors and still the same. Now I need it in case it rains to go to a new job (I usually drive a motorbike) What can I do next?
Any suggestions? (except putting petrol on it and burn it).
Thank you
Hi from S Africa. My mazda 6 2007 has had a complete engine overhaul. Mini cath in place. Radiator, starter and alterntor replaced. While in motion, not always, it occurs that the car suddenly goes into limp mode. Engine is running but no acceleration. Engine management light is on. Sometimes it occurs that the same occurs, but the car just switches off and stalls. I then have to ooen the bonnet, remove the battery terminal lead, wait 20 seconds then put back, start the car abd go. But the problem occurs again at any time without any warning. Fault code sats ecu, but had that checked and shows no problem. Does not occur when idling.
Is there any way the cold start switche can affect the acceleration of the car
What are the common reasons why electric throttle pedal fail to respond
2004 honda civic check engine light is on not flashing, RPM not reading, temperature gauge not reading, green key flashing, car starts ,runs at reduced speed no power ,hooked up odb ll won’t read codes, I was backing out of my driveway car started acting funny, smoke came up from under the hood I pulled back up in the driveway shut the car off open the hood and belt for alternator an AC was burnt off the AC pulley froze up I took belt off and got a replacement belt without AC started the car up and my results I written above
My 2010 Pajero Activ is going into Limp Mode but mechanic says no diagnostic faults recorded, everything looks good mechanically. Fuel filter and suction control valve replaced. Auto electrician also unable to find fault. Any suggestions?
can wires going to place were your code reader b
or not connected right or messed up can that cause it to go into limp mode,and can a whole inuffler cause it
Hi,I have a Mercedes-Benz vito 1998 model,it’s in limp home mode and when I run it in the diagnostic machine it gave an code B01ff that’s stated “short circuit on ground ” could this be the reason why it’s in limp home mode?
I have a Toyota Ractis 2006 model with a 2sz-fe engine and a CVT transmission.
The chain inside transmission box got broken, so I replaced the whole transmission. Now, after the replacement, my car started going into the limp mode after driving it for few kms, sometimes even at idling. What should I do?
I have a BT 50 MADZA the power train light come on when driving long distances or going up an incline (hill) The vehicle goes into limp mode but get off the limp mode if I stop and restart the engine I scanned for codes and the only code that is generated is the P00BD Code. The only thing that was done to the vehicle before having this problem was changing the oil and filter and diesel fuel filter.
The intercooler boost hose was also changed because it was burst.
Any help will be much appreciated
Hello. I have a 12 bmw 335i e92 coupe with full bolt on. When im accelerating in stock form i can floor it constantly and not have a problem at all..but when i put on jb4 piggyback and i accelerate hard then here comes limp mode and even the winsheild wipers come on! i thought the jb4 was the problem so i took it off and then took it to Dinan for stage three ECU flash..drive out of the parking lot try to do a forty roll and guess what..limp mode again..this is baffeling me , Dinan performance and my mechanic. In stock form with no extra boost hp or torque with full bolt on it is smooth sailing like a rocket but would be nice if i could run a tune and it not go into limp mode! This is also almost impossible to log because of course when i cut the car off and restart it will erase the log because its just fine then after say 15 seconds and will drive fine unless i accelerate a little hard..then limp mode…please help if you got any ideas please..thanks
Hi,
I own a 2002 Mitsubishi l200 diesel 4d56, with a injector fuel pump p/n; MR577077 wich is an electronic control fuel pump, so my problem is that the pick up goes in to limp mode, and have a engine check light on, I read the trouble code and it show only one, 18, fuel pump speed sensor, my question is; is it posible to replace the fuel pump speed sensor on that specific fuel pump model? or any maintenance will fix my problem? didn t find much solution wise on the net!
thanks for your help!
My mazda 3 2006 goes into limp mode, obd scan read absolute manifold, baromtric presure and solenoid c electrical, already change the 2 sensors maf and baro dn transmision, after instaling the new, stil in limp mode.when scand same error code.. Pls help
Ask A Mechanic